Weekend
Saturday at Bolhão: go early, leave with fruit and a bifana
The market hall is the most colourful hour in Porto. Walk it before the groups arrive, then eat nearby.
Bolhão is open again as a market, not a backdrop. On Saturday the ground floor is fruit, flowers and fish, and the upper gallery is coffee and a few stalls that still sell to people who live here.
Go before eleven. The light through the roof is the picture, and the queues are still short. Buy something you will actually cook: oranges, a bunch of coriander, bread from the stall that still slices it in front of you.
When you leave, the bifana places on Rua de Sá da Bandeira and Rua do Bonfim are a ten-minute walk. Skip the one with a laminated English menu at the door.
